Raised beds and in‑ground beds can both grow great gardens; the best choice for a new gardener depends on your soil, budget, body, and how much time you want to spend watering and weeding.
Start Here: A Quick Overview
Raised beds give you more control over soil and drainage, but they cost more to set up and dry out faster. In‑ground beds are cheaper and hold water better, but they depend on your native soil and often mean more bending and weeding.
If you are just getting started, thinking through a few practical questions now can save you frustration later. Use this checklist like a friendly, step‑by‑step decision tool—not a test you can fail.
Checklist Part 1: What’s Your Soil Like Now?
1. Do you already have good garden soil?
- “Yes, it is loose, not waterlogged, and plants grow well here.”
- “No, it is hard clay, sand, rocky, or contaminated.”
If your native soil is reasonably healthy and drains well, an in‑ground bed can be a simple, low‑cost option. If it is heavy clay, pure sand, full of rubble, or you are worried about contamination (old industrial sites, treated lumber, lead paint), raised beds let you “start fresh” with purchased soil.
2. Does water sit in your yard after a rain?
- “Puddles stick around for a day or more.”
- “Water drains within a few hours.”
Poor drainage favors raised beds, because they sit above the soggy layer and let excess water escape. If your soil already drains well and you live in a hot, dry area, in‑ground beds may be kinder to your plants and your water bill.
If your soil is:
| Soil / site situation | Better starting choice | Why it helps beginners |
| Heavy clay, compacted, or lots of rubble | Raised beds | You can bring in loose, fertile soil and avoid fighting concrete‑like ground. |
| Very wet or slow to drain | Raised beds | Roots stay out of waterlogged soil and are less likely to rot. |
| Decent structure, drains well | In‑ground or either | You can start in‑ground and improve over time with compost. |
| Hot, dry, and windy site | Often in‑ground | Soil holds moisture better and does not dry out as fast as raised beds. |
Checklist Part 2: Budget and Time
3. What is your realistic budget for setup?
- “I can spend more on lumber/metal and purchased soil.”
- “I’d rather spend as little as possible getting started.”
Raised beds require materials and soil, which can add up quickly, especially for tall beds or large gardens. In 2026, a raised bed with drip irrigation costs about $200 to put in. In‑ground beds can be as simple as removing grass, loosening the soil, and adding compost.
4. How much time do you want to spend watering?
- “I can water most days, or I’ll install drip or soaker hoses.”
- “I know I will forget if it needs water every day in summer.”
Raised beds drain and dry out faster than in‑ground soil, especially in warm, windy weather. That is great if you fight soggy soil—but it means more frequent watering in summer unless you set up irrigation.
5. How much time do you want to spend weeding?
- “I do not mind pulling more weeds if it saves money.”
- “I’d rather pay more up front and have fewer weeds later.”
In‑ground beds usually have more weed pressure, especially if you start in an area that used to be lawn or is close to “wild” ground. Raised beds filled with clean soil and mulched well often have fewer weeds, especially in the first few seasons.
If your priority is:
| Priority | Raised bed? | In‑ground? | Notes |
| Lowest upfront cost | ❌ | ✅ | In‑ground wins if your soil is safe and usable. |
| Less bending and easier access | ✅ | ❌ | Taller raised beds are kinder to backs and knees. |
| Fewer weeds at first | ✅ | ❌ | Clean fill soil plus mulch keeps weed seeds down initially. |
| Less frequent watering | ❌ | ✅ | In‑ground soil holds moisture longer, especially in hot, dry climates. |
Checklist Part 3: Your Body and Access
6. Do you have back, knee, or mobility issues?
- “Yes, bending and kneeling are hard on me.”
- “No, I can kneel and bend without much trouble.”
Higher raised beds (24-30 inches tall) reduce bending and kneeling, making gardening more comfortable if you have physical limitations. In‑ground beds can work if you are comfortable with kneeling and getting up and down frequently.
7. How long do you expect to garden in this spot?
- “This is a long‑term garden space.”
- “I might move in a few years or change the layout soon.”
Raised beds are more permanent; moving them later means disassembling and refilling them. In‑ground beds are easier to reshape, expand, or return to lawn if your needs change.
Checklist Part 4: Climate and Crops
8. Is your climate cool and wet, or hot and dry?
- “Cool and/or often wet in spring.”
- “Hot, dry summers and strong sun.”
Raised beds warm and drain faster in spring, which can give you a slightly earlier start in cool, damp climates. In very hot, dry areas, in‑ground beds often stay cooler and hold moisture better, which can reduce stress on plants.
9. What do you want to grow first?
- “Mostly shallow‑rooted annual vegetables and herbs.”
- “Bigger, deep‑rooted crops and maybe perennials or shrubs.”
Raised beds shine for annual vegetables, herbs, salad gardens, and compact crops because you can pack a lot into a small, fertile space. Deep‑rooted or sprawling crops (like corn, pumpkins, or large berry patches) can be easier and cheaper in‑ground where roots can roam farther.
Simple Decisions Based on Your Answers
If you answered “yes” most often to:
- “My soil is heavy, wet, or poor.”
- “I can spend some money up front.”
- “I want less bending and fewer weeds.”
…then raised beds will likely make your first seasons more successful and enjoyable. Just plan for consistent watering in summer and the cost of good soil.
If you answered “yes” most often to:
- “My soil is decent and drains well.”
- “My budget is tight.”
- “I do not mind some weeding and bending.”
…then starting in‑ground keeps things simple and affordable while still producing plenty of vegetables and flowers. Focus on adding compost, mulching well, and starting with a small, manageable area.
Remember that you do not have to choose only one forever. Many gardeners end up with a mix—raised beds for vegetables and herbs, in‑ground space for fruit trees, berries, and bigger crops.
