Garlic Planting for Winter Growth/Summer Harvest 

Planting garlic in the fall—before winter sets in—ensures robust growth, bigger bulbs, and flavorful harvests come summer. Garlic thrives with a winter chill, rewarding patient gardeners with rich bulbs in June or July. This guide will walk through every step, from soil prep to curing, so nothing is left to chance. 

Why Plant Garlic in Fall? 

Unlike many vegetables, garlic actually requires a cold period to develop full-sized bulbs. This is why fall planting—just before the winter chill—is essential for gardeners across North America. 

Key advantages include: 

  • Strong root establishment before the ground freezes, giving garlic a head start in spring 
  • Bigger, more flavorful bulbs at harvest time 
  • Fewer pest and disease issues thanks to cooler growing seasons 

When to Plant Garlic for Summer Harvest 

Timing is everything! 

  • Northern Gardens: Plant in late September or October, at least two weeks before the first hard frost and before soil freezes. 
  • Southern Gardens: October is ideal, but garlic can be planted through November or even December if winters are mild. 
  • Garlic generally takes 8-9 months from planting to harvest—a fall-planted clove will yield mature bulbs the following June or July.  In hot areas, they may be ready in May if planted in October. 

Selecting Garlic Varieties 

There are two main types: 

  • Hardneck Garlic: Best for colder climates, produces scapes (edible flower stems) 
  • Softneck Garlic: Best for milder climates, stores longer, and is often found in grocery stores. 

Choose disease-free seed garlic from reputable sellers rather than supermarket bulbs, which may not be well-suited for local conditions.  They may also have diseases that are not harmful to humans but will harm other plants in your garden. 

Preparing Soil for Garlic 

Garlic loves loose, well-draining soil rich in organic matter. 

  • Amend the planting area with compost or aged manure. 
  • Avoid planting where any allium (onion, leek, garlic) was grown in the past three years to reduce disease risk.  You may not be able to avoid that if you have a small garden space. 
  • Test the soil and amend as needed for a pH between 6.0 and 7.0. 

How to Plant Garlic Cloves 

  1. Separate the Bulbs: Gently break garlic bulbs into individual cloves, keeping the papery skin on the cloves intact. 
  1. Planting Depth & Spacing: 
  • Plant cloves with the pointed side up and root side down. 
  • Depth: 2 inches below the soil surface, 6 inches apart within rows; rows spaced 1 foot apart.  Bulbs that are too close together won’t get very big. 
  1. Watering: Lightly water after planting to settle the soil around the cloves. 

Mulching for Winter Protection 

Cover the planting area with 3-6 inches of straw, shredded leaves, or other mulch. 

  • In cold areas: Mulch insulates against freeze/thaw cycles and helps prevent heaving. 
  • In milder regions: 3 inches of mulch blocks weeds and retains moisture. 

Remove or thin mulch in spring once hard freezes are past.  New shoots will then emerge, and the soil will warm.  After the shoots are four inches tall, replace the mulch with enough new mulch so the total depth of the mulch is three inches deep.

Spring Garlic Care 

  • Water: Garlic needs consistent moisture but should never be soggy. 
  • Fertilize: Feed with a liquid fish/seaweed fertilizer or a balanced organic blend every couple of weeks in spring. 
  • Weed: Keep garlic beds weed-free as bulbs need all the sunlight and nutrients. 

For hardneck types, harvest garlic scapes (flower stalks) when they emerge for a tasty spring treat and to encourage bigger bulbs.  Don’t over-harvest the scapes – they are needed to make food for the plant. 

Harvesting and Curing Garlic 

  • Harvest Time: Garlic is ready when lower leaves turn brown but 2–4 upper leaves remain green—typically June to July.  In hot places, garlic is ready towards the end of May. 
  • Gently lift bulbs (avoid pulling to prevent stem breakage). 
  • Brush dirt off of the bulbs. 
  • Lay out unwashed bulbs in a well-ventilated, shady spot for 2–3 weeks to cure. 
  • Once completely dry, trim roots. You can use the stems to braid a string of garlic for hanging, or cut them off and discard them. 

Properly cured garlic can last for many months in storage. 

Troubleshooting Tips 

  • Rotting Cloves: Use well-draining soil and avoid overwatering, especially in heavy, wet winters. 
  • Small Bulbs: Plant early enough for strong root development, and don’t overcrowd cloves. 
  • Pests/Diseases: Rotate crops annually and remove allium leftovers at season’s end. 

I grew garlic once.  I did not grow it again because I had a small garden, and garlic takes up the space where it is planted for 8-9 months.  I prefer growing things that make a crop in 3-4 months, then can be removed to make room for the next crop.  If you have the space, however, garlic is not hard to grow. 

Garlic Growing Checklist

If you have gardening questions, book a call or email me at stephanie@allaboutgardeningguides. I charge $25 for up to 15 minutes.

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